Marco de Vincenzo – ľudská farebná dúha, monochromatická kolekcia Jar/Leto 2020, odkaz na multikulturalizmus, rozdiely a diverzitu, Milan Fashion Week, Móda Ženy
V nádhernom prostredí jedného z najšarmantnejších a najživších miest Milána, akým je kanál Naviglio Grande, osvetľovalo zapadajúce slnko módnu show Marco de Vincenzo v jeden krásny prehliadkový deň Milan Fashion Weeku. Opäť krásny slnečný deň prehliadkového týždňa dával vyniknúť tak modelom ligotajúcim sa na slnku ako radosti plynúcej s letnej slnečnej pohody, ktorá tešila hostí a lákala návštevníkov. Scéna na preslávenom kanáli vyzerala, akooby prišla hodina aperitívu, no žiaden Aperol Spritz nebol v dohľade.
Taliansky dizajnér však prítomným divákom naservíroval koktail farieb a textúr. Jeho kolekcia pre sezónu Jar/Leto 2020 obsahovala 47 rozdielnych farebných odtieňov, ktoré predviedol ten istý počet modeliek. Zaujímavosťou ostáva, že ani jedna farba nebola rovnaká.
Tak ako viacerí milánski dizajnéri, aj Marco de Vincenzo pozmenil tradície milánskeho módneho týždňa situovaním módnej show Jar/Leto 2020 do otvoreného priestoru milánskeho nedávno zrenovovaného doku, starého doku na rieke Naviglio. Nikdy predtým obec nepovolila konanie sa módnej show v tomto prostredí a preto bol dizajnér Marco de Vincenzo aj právom hrdý.Marco de Vincenzo je známy pre eklektickú texturálnu prácu a experimentálmu zmes kombinácií farieb a vzorov.
KOLEKCIA JAR/LETO 2020 – FAREBNÁ NAPNUTÁ DÚHA
„Rozmýšlal som o monochromatickej kolekcii už dlhý čas“, povedal v rozhovoroch dizajnér.
„Je to moja ľudská dúha, moja prvá monochromatická kolekcia“, povedal dizajnér dodávajúc, že chcel urobiť tiež vyhlásenie o multikulturalizme, skupinách spoločnosti a jeho viere, že móda je pre všetkých.
„Táto módna show je o rozdieloch a diverzite“, povedal dizajnér Marco de Vincenzo. „Móda hovorí ku každej žene a ja som chcel hovoriť ku každej žene. Žiadna diskriminácia. Chcem oslavovať ženskú jedinečnosť a krásu.“
Do módnej show obsadil tiež priateľov predvádzajúcich spolu s profesionálnymi modelkami, aby overil, či jeho dizajn funguje pre všetky typy žien. Niektoré modelky niesli kornútky so zmrzlinami, ktoré ladili s ich outfitmi. Modelky išli rad radom za sebou podľa farieb a takto po častiach dali vzniknúť Marco de Vincenzo rozriedenej farebnej napnutej dúhe.
V kolekcii pre sezónu Jar/Leto 2020 dizajnér Marco de Vincenzo vytvoril množstvo 3D efektov, krútené, zatočené sladkosti, točená zmrzlina, ktoré pripomínali vlnky na predĺžených topoch bez ramienok, ktoré ladili s midi sukňami.
Uchvátilo plno zaujímavých modelov – farebný kockovaný oblek s čírym prekrytím Campari oranžovej, ružová tónovaná sukňa, topy na štýl bikín s cikcakovým štruktúrovaným povrchom, volány a volániky pripomínajúce koktail s tmavočervenou horkou arómou.
Na móle sa blysli rôzne kostýmy nesúce rôzne farby , topy na štýl bikín, po šaty so zaujímavou štruktúrou a volánmi .
VYNIKAJÚCA PRÁCA V TEXTÚRACH
Každý dizajn niesol monochromatický look, modelky predviedli farebné rozpätie od čiernej po ružovú. Tento zámer zredukoval prístup zámeru dizajnéra na textúru, dávajúc viac zaujímavú hĺbku pozornosti povrchom bez návratu k potlačiam, vzorom a inej technike.
Dizajnér sa zameral na povrchy – plisované, lemované, reliéfované a vlnité tkaniny.
Ako pre koncepčne riskujúceho dizajnéra, táto výzva bola jasným lákadlom. Túžil po prepracovanej textúrnej práci – tkaniny boli kazetové, plisované, lemované alebo vlnité v celej rade kinetických riešení. Tiež trojdimenzionálne , expresívne juxtapozície. Pohral sa s plisovaním, krútením, laserovaním a reliéfovaním a jeho najnovšie modely z kolekcie Jar/Leto 2020 vyzerajú presne ako zmrzlina.
Laserom rezané otvory na svetrových šatách , spojenie tylu a háčkované spájanie na trblietavej červenej sukni.
Dizajnér sa vyjadril, že ho fascinuje pretvárať materiály, čo bol rozhodne invenčný prístup.
Každý outfit bol jedinečný, preklenujúci siluetu body-con k siluetám presýpacích hodín až po dvojnásobné objemy. Hoci občas bol styling trochu prehnaný a trblietavé robustné vysoké platformy spôsobovali modelkám mierne problémy pri promenáde celým mólom, dizajnér Marco de Vincenzo udržoval zaujímavý rytmus s variáciami rôznych grafických, ženských tvarov.
Kolekcia bola nerovná, i keď so šatami vyzerajúcimi objemne s veľa vrstvami. Všetky tie textúry, sukne strednej dĺžky neboli veľmi lichotivé.
Dizajnér Marco de Vincenzo bol vo svojom živle najlepší v predošlej tvorbe s jednoduchými siluetami, šatami s vysokými pásmi s krátkymi nadýchanými rukávmi, so štýlmi dierovania a strieborno-zelenými šatami a sviežou skladanou sukňou, ktoré menili farbu podľa svetla.
Módna show bola poetická a prehliadka na kanáli Naviglio Grande tomu ešte viac napomáhala. Na konci módnej show sa modelky zhromaždili do farebných skupín a pózovali na zakrivenom moste, ktorý prepája dva brehy kanála. V skutku zaujímavé módne predstavenie, ktoré tešilo oko divákov, hostí a prítomných módnych nadšencov.
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