Gucci, Fendi, Moschino, Prada, Max Mara, Versace, Dolce and Gabbana, Salvatore Ferragamo – Milan Fashion Week, jar/leto 2018 – RETROSPEKTÍVA
Čoskoro sa nám blíži týždeň módy v Miláne, preslávený Milan Fashion Week, na ktorom svetoví návrhári v septembri 2018 predstavia kolekcie pre sezónu jar/leto 2019 a tak si pripomeňme trendy a kolekcie tohto leta najvplyvnejších lídrov na trhu. V tejto časti Vám prinášam pohľad na prvých z nich, značky Gucci a Fendi a ich kolekcie pre jar/leto 2018 z minuloročného Milan Fashion Weeku, september/2017.
GUCCI – jar/leto 2018
Módna značka Gucci rada šokuje. Ani táto kolekcia neostala svojej predošlej prehliadke jeseň/zima 2017, kde výsledkom bol tzv. šik podivín nič dlžná. Jeho typickým predstaviteľom sa stal herec Jared Leto, ktorý je tvárou značky Gucci.
Kolekcia jar/leto 2018 nebola teda výnimkou. Módny návrhár Alessandro Michele (1972 Rím, Taliansko) vytvoril psychedelickú parádu pod blikotajúcimi svetlami z flitrov Eltona Johna, motívu zajaca Buggs Bunny, zobrazil snehulienku na flitrovanom pánskom pulóvri a objavili sa aj motívy východných vplyvov. Prehliadka tejto kolekcie pre leto 2018 plná tranzu bola ponorená do tmy a halucinogénnej hudby. Flitrované šaty, podkolienky, pančuchy, krátke nohavice a oversize saká, logá perlové náhrdelníky boli skombinované do štýlu s príznačným Gucci rukopisom.
Video z tejto prehliadky si môžete pozrieť na youtube kanáli na tomto linku: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uTmrV8JnntY
Skutočne, ako hovorí návrhár Alessandro Michele, je dôležité oslobodiť sa od ilúzie nového za každú cenu? Podľa jeho slov sa snažil vytvoriť módu, ktorá je blízka súčasnej populácii, akou bola predvedená dámska vyšívaná tepláková súprava s ozdobnými kryštálovými kamienkami, logom a náhrdelníkom inšpirovaná vintage rokmi 80-tými. V úvode prehliadky sa pri chôdzi trblietali modely ako zlatý ligotavý plášť s flitrami, sako s extravagantne veľkými ramenami s iniciálkami EHJ na zadnej časti chrbta. Písmeno H symbolizovalo názov Herkules. Ak vraj chcete zmeniť svoje meno, urobte to tak, aby bolo nezabudnuteľné. Prípadne nápisy Never marry a Mitford – nikdy sa neožeň za Mitforda, vytlačené na svetroch, boli odkazom na nedávne stretnutie s vojvodom a vojvodkyňou z Devonshire. Zlučovanie vintage, súčasnosť a glamour štýl charakteristické pre Gucci kolekciu jar/leto 2018 bolo oslnivou udalosťou.
Gucci, kolekcia jar-leto 2018, Milan Fashion Week, september 2017, zdroj obrázkov: Vogue
herečka Dakota Johnson, Gucci outfit, street style foto, september 2017, zdroj: VogueMódnu show navštívili hviezdy ako tradične Salma Hayek v Gucci outfite, herečka Dakota Johnson a mnohé iné talianske a svetové celebrity. Street style footografie z ulíc pred prehliadkou značky Gucci sú publikované na facebook stránke blogu myamirell.eu – Mya Mirell Fashionista.
Herečka Dakota Johnson s módnym návrhárom značky Gucci – Alessandro Michele na Green Carpet Fashion Awards večera počas udeľovania cien, Milan Fashion Week – september 2017, jar/leto 2018, zdroj: hollywoodreporter com
FENDI – modernosť s príchuťou retro
V kolekcii značky Fendi pre Jar/Leto 2018 nebolo badať tvrdohlavý vplyv nedávno zosnulej riaditeľky Carla Fendi, ktorý nastal krátko po jej smrti. Karla Fendi bola jednou z piatich sestier, ktorá z dedičstva menšej koženej dielne, workshopu, spravila klenot luxusnej módy. Módny dom Fendi je známy pre uplatňovanie kože a kožušín v kolekciách a niekoľko zaujímavých prvkov bolo vidno aj na prehliadke kolekcie jar/leto 2018. Za tento prístup si vyslúžili nejeden protest od aktivistov, ochrancov prírody a to priamo pred prehliadkou. Nemecký návrhár Karl Lagerfeld, ktorý navrhoval kolekcie pre značku vyše 50 rokov, býva často uvedený ako jeden z ďalších, tzv. šiesty súrodenec. Túto kolekciu pre sezónu Jar/Leto 2018 navrhli spolu Karl Lagerfeld so Silviou Venturini Fendi. Sústredili sa na čisté jemné vrstvenie, línie, transparentné materiály, sviežosť a ľahkosť.
KOLEKCIA
Kolekciu jar/leto 2018 charakterizovali geometrické línie. Celý dizajn sa sústredil na pruhy, ktoré boli uplatenené v rôznych smeroch, líniách a farbách. Ich použitie malo za následok vytvorenie zaujímavých siluet pre moderné ženy. Farby, ktoré sme na modeloch mohli vidieť, boli oceánska modrá, zelená, farba koralovo-ružová a jarné pastelové farby. Výsledok môžeme zhodnotiť ako tropický pruhovaný chic štýl, závan sviežej tropickej atmosféry.
Transparentné ľahké materiály a pruhy boli markantným motívom novej kolekcie Fendi pre sezónu Jar/Leto 2018
Fendi, kolekcia jar/leto 2018, Milan Fashion Week, september 2017, zdroj: Fendi
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