Paris Fashion Week – 28. september – 6. október 2020, Dior, Kenzo, sezóna Jar / Leto 2021, časť I.
Módne týždne konané vo svete v septembri 2020 od New Yorku, cez Londýn a Miláno zakončili svoju sezónu v Paríži, parížskym fashion weekom. Vďaka koronavírusovej pandémii však vyzerali úplne rozdielne. Zatiaľčo niektorí dizajnéri sa rozhodli pre virtuálne prehliadky, iní predvádzali vo fyzickej rovine v intímnom prostredí za striktných hygienických pravidiel, kde účastníci sedeli vzdialene od seba s maskami na tvárach.
Odlišnosti boli značné, New York fashion Week sa prakticky vo fyzickej rovine nekonal a nemal takmer žiaden street style, zatiaľčo Londýn sa ako tak virtuálne prebúdzal. Móda následne ožila počas Milan Fashion Weeku, ktorý uspel z tohto sezónnych módnych týždňov najlepšie. Šnúru svetových módnych týždňov následne zakončili prehliadky v Paríži.
Hľadanie nádeje a vízia krajšej budúcnosti na konci tunela sa zdá, bola jedna z najzastrešujúcejších tém prezentácií módnych kolekcií na virtuálnych módnych týždňoch od New Yorku po Paríž končiacich v utorok, 6. októbra 2020. New York, Londýn, Miláno a Paríž sa pre obtiažnosť situácie, ktorá nateraz máva s celým svetom, stali jednými z najpamätnejších svetových týždňov módy.
Dizajnéri však neklesali na duchu. Na vzniknutú pretrvávajúcu situáciu zareagovali aktuálne svojimi kolekciami a v rovnakom čase sa zdalo, že pozerajú aj miestami optimisticky smerom dopredu k veselšiemu postpandemickému svetu. V módnom dizajne uznali skutočnosť, ako sa ľudia aktuálne tieto dni obliekajú, vytvárajúc pohodlne vyzerajúce odevy ktoré sa balia, prehadzujú či vinú cez telo , v niekoľkých prípadoch s výslovným odkazom na šatník zrodený z práce z domu a z videokonferencií.
Virtuálne módne show hrali prím, hybridné formy týždňov módy boli tentokrát žiadúce a len veľmi málo dizajnérov predvádzalo tradičným spôsobom. Pozrime sa na módu a udalosti zo skončeného Paris Fashion Weeku (09/10. 2020), ktorý nastolil trendy pre sezónu Jar/Leto 2021.
NOVINKY Z PARIS FASHION WEEKU
DIOR
Módny dom Dior strhol celú pozornosť Paris fashion Weeku na seba. Sústredil sa na ženskosť a nositeľnosť. Prehliadka módnej kolekcie Jar / Leto 2021 sa konala v Jardin des Tuilieres, v dychberúcom záhradnom priestore situovanom medzi Louvrom a Place de la Concorde v Paríži za účasti menšieho počtu hostí. Priestor môže uhostiť za normálnych okolností viac ako 1200 ľudí, no tentokrát sedadlá privítali iba 350 hostí rozmiestnených v požadovaných rozostupoch.
Dior predstavil viac ako 80 rozdielnych lookov, ktoré boli oslavou krásy modernej francúzskej kultúry dokonca i v strede pandémie.
Oživenie Dior ikonických sák Bar Jackets
Ikonické tzv. bar jackets (saká s volánikom a úzkym pásom) boli vytvorené Christiánom Diorom v roku 1947. Sú jemného strihu so zvisenými guľatými ramenami, rovným pásom a vystuženým strihom v oblasti bokov. Stali sa hlavným znakom módneho domu Dior.
Talianska dizajnérka Maria Grazia Chiuri, kreatívna riaditeľka módneho domu Dior, sa v tejto sezóne navrátila naspäť k pôvodu niektorých siluet. Štruktúra Dior klasických sák bola pretvorená do podoby starších siluet z Christian Dior show Jeseň / Zima 1954, japonskej kolekcie . Popri tom, ako si vzala inšpiráciu z minulosti, Chiuri zároveň vliala prvkom nový zmysel modernity.
Dizajnérka Maria Grazia Chiuri sa vrátila do histórie k tzv. bar jackets. Štruktúra Dior klasických sák bola pretvorená do podoby starších siluet z Christian Dior módnej show Jeseň / Zima 1954 s novým zmyslom modernity.
Znovuoživená pánska košeľa a topánky ballerina slippers
Popri sandáloch s pásikom, ktoré sa stali hlavnými hviezdami móla, sa objavili aj tzv. ballerina slippers topánky ako Dior nový trend pre sezónu Jar / Leto 2021. Tie slávili úspech v roku 2000, avšak krátko na to boli zaradené medzi módne faux pas. Tento typ balerín sa pre sezónu 2021 rozhodla talianska dizajnérka oživiť ako nový trend.
Novým trendom nasledujúcej letnej sezóny sa stáva aj pretvorená pánska košeľa.
KENZO
Značka Kenzo sa zamerala na klimatické zmeny a záchranu včiel a túto tému pretavila do kolekcie Jar / Leto 2021. Módna show pod vedením dizajnéra Felipe Oliveira Baptista sa konala v otvorenom priestore za sociálnych odstupov hostí.
Väčšinu z kolekcie tvorili ľahké plášte na letnejšie počasie a farebné šaty, ktorým dominovala plejáda farebných závojov.
Niektoré modely skutočne vyzerali ako navrhnuté do pandémie dokonale splňujúce požiadavky na sociálne odstupy.
Viac sa o novinkách a trendoch z Paris Fashion Weeku, pre sezónu Jar/Leto 2021 dočítate v ďalšom pokračovaní článku. Sledujte tiež facebook stránku blogu: Mya Mirell Fashionista a Instagram:mya_mirell.
zdroj obrázkov: getty images, Vogue
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