Paris Fashion Week – jarné prehliadky kolekcií značiek Rick Owens, Chanel, Row, Loewe, Ester Manas, Courréges, 26. september – 4. október 2022
Módna šnúra svetových fashion weekov sa po New Yorku, Londýne, Miláne presunula do ďalšej mekky módy – Paríža. Paris Fashion Week, ktorý sa konal v týždni od 26. septembra do 4. októbra 2022, predstavil po dvoch rokoch stagnácií v dôsledku covid pandémie nové kolekcie dizajnérov pre sezónu Jar/Leto 2023. Davy fanúšikov módy, známych tvárí z módneho biznisu a zo šoubiznisu sa s nadšením opäť ukázali vo francúzskom hlavnom meste.
Paríž predviedol žiarivé farby, priliehavé večerné oblečenie, nápadité detaily, trendové novinky pre nadchádzajúcu sezónu a bombatickú šou v podobe celebrít a ikon akou je speváčka Cher, či herečka Zendaya. Pozrime sa na záblesky z prehliadkových mól a nezabudnuteľné momenty prvých dizajnérov.
RICK OWENS
Dizajnér Rick Owens oživil nehybnú fontánu v Palais de Tokyo veľkým výtriskom 50-metrového prúdu vody, okolo ktorého predvádzali modelky kolekciu Jar/Leto 2023. Jeho invenčný spôsob tvorenia módnych kreácií „odklonom od vkusných a úzkych konvencií“, sa zrkadlí aj v prevedení módnych šou. Takisto ako v prípade pánskeho oblečenia pre sezónu Jar/Leto 2023, bola aj v tejto kolekcii paleta farieb výrazne jasnejšia. Pohybovala sa od kovovej zelenej, žltej cez šokujúcu ružovú.
Rick Owens naservíroval bohaté šifónové róby v kombinácii s platformovými čižmami.
Fotografia: Peter White/Getty Images
LOEWE
Červený kvet antúrie sa stal motívom dizajnu celej kolekcie, ktorú dokonale obsiahol. Od pozvánky, ktorou bol červený kvet antúrie ako produkt prírody po samotnú kolekciu, kde sa vyskytoval ako predmet dizajnu. Antúrie sa objavili na šatách, modelovaných ako košíčky podprsenky a náprsné panciere vyrobené z kovu pokrytého keramickou farbou.
Módny návrhár Jonathan Anderson sa v kolekcii Loewe Jar/Leto 2023 pohral s objemom v šatách so sukňou a s balónovými topánkami, ktoré boli v tejto sezóne premenené na zväzky vyfúknutých topánok pohlcujúcich balóny.
Módnej šou sa zúčastnila herečka Zendaya v šatách Loewe.
Fotografia: Isidore Montag/gorunway.com
CHANEL
Inšpiráciou pre kolekciu Chanel, Jar/Leto 2023 bol avantgardný čiernobiely film Alaina Resnaisa z roku 1961 s názvom Last Year in Marienbad . Legendárna Coco Chanel pre neho navrhla kostýmy a tak sa súčasná kreatívna riaditeľka Virginie Viard, ktorá stojí v čele značky po nedávnom skone dizajnérskeho Mága Karla Lagerfelda, rozhodla pre tento motív.

Delphine SeyrigÊand Giorgio Albertazzi in Last Year at Marienbad. Photo Courtesy Rialto Pictures.
Módny dom Chanel však už raz odkazoval na tento film a to za pôsobenia Karla Lagerfelda, ktorý si ho vzal ako inšpiráciu pre kolekciu Chanel, Jar/Leto 2011.
Kolekcia Chanel, Jar/Leto 2011 navrhnutá Karlom Lagerfeldom.
Kolekcia Chanel, Jar/Leto 2011 navrhnutá Karlom Lagerfeldom.
Virginie Viard predstavila krátky film s herečkou Kristen Stewart (ktorá sedela v prvom rade) ako poctu originálu.
Perie, šifón a samozrejme slávne male čierne šaty boli kľúčovými prvkami filmu a taktiež tejto letnej kolekcie. Nádych modernosti jej dizajnérka dodala pridaním súprav tvídových šortiek, sieťovaných topánok a kombinéz s retiazkovým lemovaním.
ESTER MANAS
Ester Manas vie ako oslavovať ženy. V jej poznámkach k prehliadke kolekcie Manas Jar/Leto 2023 bolo uvedené, že „Každý je vítaný“, čo bolo zrejmé z obsadenia kolekcie vrátane veľkosti. Kolekcia sa pohybovala v odtieňoch západu slnka. Na móle sa vlnili nazberané a nariasené šaty, topy a sukne. Nohavice odhaľovali detaily ako plavky navrstvené pod nimi. Manas spolu s manželom predstavila oblečenie, v ktorom sa ženy s krivkami cítili pohodlne a vyzerali dobre.
COURREGES
Nicolasa Di Feliceho, dizajnéra značky Courreges inšpiroval pre kolekciu Jar/Leto 2023 pojem uplynutého času. Pretvoril šaty na zips z roku 1974 s krivočiarymi líniami na sériu šiat a topov, ktoré sa dekonštruktivisticky vinú okolo tela.
Tiež zakrivené švy neoprénu z roku 1981 pretvoril na bundu. Bundy boli okrášlené funkčnými detailami ako popruhy, aby sa vraj dali nosiť na pleci po tanečnej párty. Predvádzala Bella Hadid ako aktuálne komerčne najznámejšia modelka.
Tému plynutia času scéna podčiarkla prúdom rastlinného piesku vyrobeného zo škrupín orechov, ktorý zhora padal na mólo ako časomiera do rozširujúcej sa jamy.
ROW
Nová kolekcia značky Row je celá šik, elegantná s jednoduchými líniami. Vysnívaný minimalistický šatník zahŕňal čierne blejzre, šortky na mieru, svieže biele košele, šaty, ktoré napodobňovali posteľnú bielizeň omotanú okolo tela a zauzlené na chrbte.
Kolekcia zahŕňa širokú škálu jarno-letných modelov od žabiek, cez krčené priesvitné pančuchy po kožené operné rukavice s rukávmi kabáta vyhrnutými tak, aby ukazovali lakeť v rukavici.
Biele a krémové oversize strihy kabátov a sák boli doplnené športovou obuvou s vysokými bielymi ponožkami.
Ďalšie prehliadky kolekcií dizajnérov z Paris Fashion Weeku, Jar/Leto 2023, si môžete prečítať v článkoch na pokračovanie na tomto blogu.
Obrázky: © Chanel, Vogue, Getty Images, Courreges, Ester Manas, Loewe, Rick Owens, Grazia It, imdb, WWD
Sledujte Facebook stránku: Mya Mirell Fashionista a Instagram: mya_mirell .
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