Počas januárových týždňov módy sa konalo niekoľko módnych show, kde bolo skutočne možné vidieť a zažiť módne šialenstvá v podobe bláznivých kolekcií, extravagantných kúskov, výtvory, ktoré sú považované skôr za umenie. Človek sa mohol preniesť mysľou do rôznych období s rôznymi štýlmi.
Máte dosť konvenčnosti? Veď, čo môže byť viac bežné, klasické a nudné ako sivé obleky? Potom ste mohli zažiť show, ktorá sa dala považovať za najumeleckejšiu. 22. januára sa na Parížskom týždni módy konala zaujímavá show, ktorú nastolil americký návrhár THOM BROWNE. Na svetlo vyšiel s netradičnou kolekciou, ktorá zaujala z hľadiska použitého materiálu – hrubej vlnenej látky, twídu a z hľadiska strihu a vrstvenia. Symbol typického muža-belocha, sivý oblek, chcel vytrhnúť z konformity. Nudné sivé obleky pretransformoval na umenie šokujúcim spôsobom. Jednotlivé kusy boli akoby nahrubo rozrezané, vrstvené, kladené na seba, cez seba, sem tam kúsok poodhaľovali, či stiesňovali. Kompozične modeli vytvárali dojem neohrabanej schránky, mohyly, robustnosti, nepravidelnosti. Modelov navliekol do nadrozmerných „náčrtov“. Prichádzali i štrukturálne plastické obleky. Modeli mali na nohách robustné topánky na hrubej podrážke pripomínajúce kopýtka, na ktorých sa isto ťažko vykračovalo a show sa niesla v pomalom tempe. V skutku zaujímavé poňatie originality, evolúcie.
Paris, Haute Couture, Spring 2017, January 22
ABOUT THOM BROWNE
THOM BROWNE has been honored the CFDA Menswear Designer of the Year Award in 2016, 2013 and 2006, the GQ Designer of the Year in 2008 and the Cooper Hewitt National Design Award in 2012. He began his business with five suits and with a small by-appointment-only shop in 2001 and introduced his ready-to-wear collection in 2003. His traditionally based hand-made suits have evolved into collections recognized by museums around the world including the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum, the Victoria and Albert Museum and the Fashion Museum in Bath. Browne’s innovations in tailoring have been identified with impacting the paradigm of men’s and women’s fashion. The Thom Browne collections for both men and women are available through Thom Browne stores in New York, Tokyo, Seoul and Hong Kong as well as at luxury designer specialty stores around the world, such as Bergdorf Goodman, Barneys New York, Colette and le Bon Marché in Paris, Dover Street Market in London, Tokyo and New York, Mr. Porter, Selfridges in London and Isetan, Hankyu and United Arrows in Tokyo.
source: vogue.com, thombrowne.com
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