Salvatore Ferragamo, Jil Sander, Milan Fashion Week – Móda Ženy, 18. – 24. september 2018, kolekcia jar/leto 2019, 20. september 2018
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO a JIL SANDER
Talianski módni návrhári sú predovšetkým dobrí v produktoch, nie v konceptoch, t.j. majú zmysel pre citlivosť. Sú bohatí na vyjadrenia, odkazy so znakmi nositeľnosti. Svoje kolekcie pre sezónu jar/leto 2019 predviedli v tomto duchu hlavne značky Salvatore Ferragamo a Jil Sander.
Pracovať s historicky zabehnutou značkou a snaha o update k zmysluplným novým cestám, nie je veru ľahká úloha. Avšak obe značky, Luke a Lucie Meier, návrhári značky Jil Sander a Paul Andrew a Giullaume Meilland , dizajnový riaditeľ značky Salvatore Ferragamo, si s tým poradili veľmi dobre. Značkám priniesli a vtlačili aktuálny klasický štýl, ktorý talianska móda dokáže robiť najlepšie.
Meierovci vniesli do novej kolekcie značky Jil Sander pre sezónu jar/leto 2019 aj kvapku abstrakcie a najmä utilitárnosti, zatiaľ čo Salvatore Ferragamo bola silná, výrazná na maliarsku farbu.
JIL SANDER
Prehliadka tejto značky sa konala v budove starej továrne na výrobu tradičnej talianskej sladkej pochúťky – vianočného koláča Panettone. V prvej časti prehliadky kolekcie pre sezónu jar/leto 2019 sa predstavila utilitárna móda, geometrické jednoduché strihy, silno úžitková. Všetko perfektne ladilo, topy so spodnými dielmi , pričom sa dalo aj vhodne vzájomne kombinovať k vytvoreniu rôznych lookov. Táto jednoduchosť , strohosť a jasne badateľná funkčnosť bola navyše s nádychom módy v našich končinách silno povedomej, opantaná rúškom dávnych dôb komunistickej éry.
V ďalšej časti prehliadky značky Jil Sander sa do utilitárnosti a strohosti premietol aj jemný závan ženskosti so zachovaním estetickosti módneho domu. Oversize – nadmerné strihy, voľné strihy, biela nevinná farebnosť a rafinované výstrihy, či sukne, nežne doladili a obmäkčili úvodnú strohú prísnosť kolekcie.
Strohosť geometrickej jednoduchosti modelu narušila plisovaná sukňa a pridala dotyk ženskosti.
Objavili sa trendy materiály a prvky ako v mnohých kolekciách ostatných návrhárov, športové oversize bundy, suché zipsy, opasky na štýl bezpečnostných pásov, letecký parašutistický štýl z pevných technických materiálov silon a nylon.
Háčkované modely predvedené na samotný záver prehliadky Jil Sander síce nespadajú do minimalistického štýlu, ale stávajú sa trendami pre nasledujúcu sezónu jar/leto 2019.
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
Salvatore Ferragamo je talianska značka, ktorá sa vyznačuje klasickým štýlom. Jej dizajn sa vyvíjal s časom. Salvatore Ferragamo je luxusná značka Made in Italy, zameraná na kožený tovar, topánky a ready-to-wear collection pre ženy a mužov. Sídlo založenia spoločnosti je vo Florencii. V súčasnosti značka vystriedala na postoch ženskej ready-to-wear kategórie viacero lídrov od Massimiliano Giornetti, cez Fluvio Rigoni po Paul Andrew v pomerne krátkom čase. Posledný kreatívny návrhár Paul Andrew bol aktuálne vyzvaný, aby ukázal svoju identitu a štýl v novej kolekcii pre sezónu jar/leto 2019. Načrel hlboko do archívov a zameral sa na najväčšiu silu značky. Svoju novú kolekciu pre sezónu jar-leto 2019 postavil na fundamentálnom základe, na ktorom si aj väčšina žien stavia svoj šatník a to topánkach. Tie môžeme vidieť v kolekcii rôzne s jednoznačným zámerom, návratom k silnej klasike.
Tentokrát v kolekcii pre jar/leto 2019 bola badateľne silná, výrazná na maliarsku farbu. Štýl kolekcie bol predsa výnimočne zdržanlivý. Prvá polovica prehliadky sa niesla v silnom klasickom duchu, predviedli sa trench coaty, kaki voľnočasové nohavice, nič zbytočne iritujúce alebo príliš zvláštne. A taktiež nič výrazne odlišné ako je pre značku typické. Predvádzali aj starší modely. Farebná ladenosť sa niesla v duchu Toskánskej tlmenej neutrality s oživením farbami v niektorých pasážach prehliadky kolekcie.
Zaujímavé kúsky kolekcie boli najmä ružový saténový nohavicový kostým predvedený modelkou Kaia Gerber a ultraviolet jednoduché plážové šatyna tričku.
V druhej polovici prehliadky prišlo malé oživenie, zameranie na dizajn. Experimentácia bola prevedená viac na poli mladíckych znakov, akými sú asymetrické vrstvené oddelenia, modely s letným nádychom farebných tropických potlačí, šaty pod háčkovanými zvrškami s veľkými okami, kožené modely strihané na štýl pyžama, jemné nohavice a lesklé čierne kožené kombinézy.
V tejto časti kolekcie si každý mohol nájsť niečo pre seba.
Háčkované veľké oká sieťových šiat ako vrchný diel cez tričko alebo navlečené na spodné šaty, sú novými trendami pre nasledujúcu sezónu jar/leto 2019 aj v kolekcii značky Salvatore Ferragamo.
Počas svojich skorých období v Hollywoode, pracoval módny návrhár Salvatore Ferragamo taktiež so celebritami. Od jej prvého debutu v Los Angeles v roku 1915, značka obliekala hollywoodske bohyne a bohov po dobu už viac ako 100 rokov – výročie uplynulo v roku 2015. Salvatore Ferragamo sa stala značkou hviezd akou je talianska ikonická herečka Sophia Loren a akými boli herečky Audrey Hepburn, Greta Garbo, princezná Lady Diana a obliekala aj princeznú z Walesu.
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