Paris Fashion Week – 24. február 2020 – 4. marec 2020, sezóna Jeseň / Zima 2020 – 21, najzaujímavejšie momenty, časť I. – Ballenciaga, Stella McCartney, Tom Browne
Foto: WW/Rex/Shutterstock
Milánsky týždeň módy sa prehupol do parížskeho, ktorý sa oficiálne skončil. 4. marca 2020 a ponúkol opäť pozoruhodné momenty.
BALENCIAGA – APOKALYPSA
Hotovú apokalypsu pripravila značka Balenciaga, keď do vodou naplneného prehliadkového priestoru opticky vyzerajúceho že až do výšky tretieho sedadla diváka, vyslala na prehliadkové mólo. Hmla a vodným oparom nasýtený priestor, kde za každou kvapkou vlniacou vodnú hladinu navodzovala prítomným sediacim divákom pocit, že Apokalypsa práve nastala.
Apokalypsa prináša so sebou úplné zatmenie a taká bola aj kolekcia pre sezónu Jeseň / Zima 2020-21 značky Baleciaga.
Predvádzali modelky a modeli všetkých vekových kategórií.
Temná, ponurá s niektorými svetlými jasnými momentami ako svetlo na konci tunela. Niekedy mal divák pocit, že sa zmieta v tomto temnom módnom ošiali vlhkej hmlistej atmosféry.
Večerné šaty dopĺňali legíny, rukavice a do outfitov zakomponované topánky.
Ramená boli tak ostré a špicaté, ako bojový nástroj.
STELLA McCARTNEY – CO2 NEUTRAL
Módnu show „ukradli“ a pozornosť na seba strhli zvieratká promenádajúce sa po móle. Modelky v životnej veľkosti zvierat, v zvieracích kostýmoch zajaca, líšky, koňa, kravy, krokodíla sa nezvyklo objavili v závere show Stelly McCartney na Paris Fashion Weeku, .
Už v úvode show prichádzajúcich divákov vítali zvieracie kostýmy, aké vídať na športových podujatiach. Držali v rukách držali mini stromčeky so spraávou, že ich vysadením pomôžeme znížiť produkciu oxidu uhličitého. Módna dizajnérka Stella McCartney opäť nabádala k hlavnému lightmotívu show: „Všetci by sme mali byť uhlíkovo neutrálni“. Jej značka od roku 2001 upustila od používania koží a kožušín. Pridali sa samozrejme aj iné značky v módnom biznise. Digitálna pozvánka niesla logo: „Make love not leather.“
V tejto najnovšej kolekcii sa objavila vegan koža a prvok – lemovanie hladkých splývavých šiat a opaskov, vysoké goliere na kabátoch a tradične nestarnúce káro.
Dizajnérka pracovala silno so strihom v neutrálnych tónoch – kaki a šedých pri zvrchných kúskoch na Jeseň.
Strihové krajčírske umenie sa pretavilo do novej kolekcie Stella McCartney.
Na záver módnej show sa objavili saténové šaty s trblietavým zdobením. Kúsok nie celkom bežný od tejto dizajnérky, no určtie zaujímavý pre celebrity sediace v hľadisku, ktoré si ho možno vyberú na galavečer na červený koberec.
TOM BROWNE – SAFARI
Dizajnér Tom Browne usadil divákov z upršaného Paríža do zasneženej krajinnej scenérie. Apokalypsa na parížskom fashion weeku bola jasne citeľná. Odrazila sa tak v značke Balenciaga ako aj u Toma Browne, ktorého lightmotívom zimnej kolekcie 2020-21 sa stala téma Noemova Archa. Toto všetko je reflexiou na pálčivé aktuálne problémy, ktoré kvária svet ako je globálne oteplovanie, znečistenie planéty, stále častejšie prírodné katastrofy a aktuálne vyčínajúci Corona vírus.
Kolekcia Tom Browne pre sezónu Jeseň / Zima 2020 – 21 obsahovala plisované sukne midi dĺžky s pruhovaním, kockovaním alebo grafickým dizajnom, typické pre Browneho zvláštne prvky – bundy použité ako sukne, kabelky v dizajne zvierat. Predviedol vzájomne kombinovateľné prvky – saká a bundy, vlnené podkolienky – všetko, čo zrejme budeme potrebovať, keď príde daná katastrofa, povodeň.
Dizajnér zmixoval na móle páry a nikto netušil, kto je kto. Urobil tak kvôli neustálemu gender vymedzovaniu v spoločnosti.
Páry predviedli zvieracie kabelky v čiernej koži a celé safari nesúc na hlavách masky zvierat.
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